Houseboat, homestay or resort — the backwaters work differently depending on which you choose.
What the backwaters actually are
A 900-kilometre network of lakes, canals and rivers running parallel to the Arabian Sea between Kollam and Kochi. Villages sit along the banks, rice paddies sit below sea level behind bunds, and the whole thing is navigable by boat.
The houseboat night
A converted kettuvallam with one to three bedrooms, a crew of two or three, and a cook. You board around midday, cruise until sunset, moor overnight — boats are not permitted to move after dark — and return by nine the next morning. It is one night, not two, and that is enough for most people.
Alleppey versus Kumarakom
Alleppey has more boats and more canals, so you see more village life and more other boats. Kumarakom is quieter and opens onto Vembanad Lake, which feels bigger and emptier. Couples usually prefer Kumarakom; first-timers usually prefer Alleppey.
What to pack
Mosquito repellent, a light long-sleeved layer for the evening, and less luggage than you think — the boarding jetty involves a short walk and a step down.
Combining it
Two nights in Munnar for the tea estates, one night in Thekkady for the spice plantations, one night on the boat and one in Kochi is the five-night route we book most often. It works in either direction.
